1000kmm

Technically done at 901km - should be done between 800 and 1000.

Plan on maintenance

I will be keeping track of all maintenance including all costs.

Initial Steps

Isolate battery

Stands

Mounted the bike on stands - not only giving more secure base, but allowing the wheels to move freely, keep it flat, and less likely to fall.

Initial once over

• Front wheel - doesn’t roll very smoothly, has a lot of friction, far more than I would expect. Would it make a difference, probably not. But I need to look up some manuals and check.
• Rear wheel - probably the brake, has a loud noise. I think this is just an issue with brakes, and I need to watch some you tube videso to see.
• Running the motor (yay standas) up to ab out 50k/h I notice quite a wobble at the back. It is very likely this wheel has not been balanced.
• CBS - got to experiment with the CBS, where using the rear brake activates about 20% of the front brake. I played with that, and can feel the front wheel almost lock as I gently apply the rear. But if I gently apply the front, the front wheel locks up nice and solid. So it works as expected, but I just don’t get the purpose - unless it is about older style teaching tequiques that used lots of rear brake.

Remove plastics and tanks

The bolts are pretty obvious. Keep track of the bolts, lengths, which have rubber grommits, and most importantly - that the little metal clips on the plastic, as they easily fall off.

One other note, is that some of the plastic is held down with plastic clips, be careful not to break them off.

Fix Key issue

The key connector was easy to find. As I left the key on, I could move the cables and hear the connect/disconnect spark. There was nothing shorted. I disconnected the connector, checked each cable, made sure everhything was secure, well inserted etc. I then pushed the connector in smoothly and it clicked nicely. I then tested it very carefully, and no matter where I moved it, it continued to work well. So very easy fix.

Added cable tie to these and other connectors

Install new charging point

Complete and looks awesome. So much nicer to use than opening back seat.

Cable Ties

To fix the key issue, and change charging point, I had to remove cable ties. Reinstall these. Note that also there was quite a few loose cables, some even that could reach moving parts such as suspension and steering - cable tie all of these.

Mount Battery Monitor on Dash

Move the battery monitor to dash instead of tank. Longer term location. Run battery cable for power and CAN bus connector for longer term monitoring options. Look at other USB connection options for 5V. Only got this partially done, will finish off in the future.

Other connectors

Check every other connector, and cable tie, or tape. A couple of connectors were a bit risky for shorting, so I tapped/heat shrink and cable ties.

Schedule

• Throttle
  • Done - Make sure throttle is free and always resets to zero
• Brake fluid (dot 3 or 4)
  • Done - Photograph now
  • Done - check levels, replace every few years
  • Done - Measure brake movement
• Batten
  • WTF is this?
• Brake Pad
  • Done - check, photograph, and clean disk
• Cables and hoses
  • Done - check brake hoses, photograph
  • Done - review all other cables - no wear, no movement that shouldn’t be
• Brake light switch
  • Done - Back and Front brake operate light
• Headlight aim
  • Done: Measure at about 5-7m. Should be about 5-10cm below for low beam
  • Done - Headlights both work, including high beam
  • Done - Tail light works
  • Done - Number plate light
• Suspension
  • Done
• Nuts, bolts, fasteners
  • Done - Check bolts on brakes
• Wheels / Tyres
  • Done - Tyres - photograh and measure tread depth
  • Done - Tyres - check pressure
  • Done - Wheels - visual inspection - paying attention to any cracks in the aluminium
  • Check bolts on front and rear wheel
  • Done - Bearings - check spinning free
• Steering head bearing
  • Done - Move steering, make sure no free play, check bolt tight on steering. Check handlebars are tight.

My own additions:

• Battery Mounting
  • Done check the battery is not moving

Space

There is heaps of space either side of the existing main battery to add further batteries. This would require adding metal bracket for safety. There is enough space where the old 12 volt battery would have been, and above the rear suspension for probably 2x20Ah batteries. Finally there is above and to the side of the rear seat.

There is more space than I though there would be. Certainly I need to yet mount my charger.

Costs

• $250 - for life time warranty
• $34 - 2 months of self service fee ($17/month)
• $10 - black spray paint
• $12 - Anderson Plug flush dash mount for charging

Not couting life time warranty, this service therefore cost me $56.

• ←Previous
Next→