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Random documentation by Scott
I am putting together all sorts of documentation about maintaining and hacking this bike.
What documentation where?
TODO: About this site, me, etc.
Safety - please be safe.
Be safe out there. You are dealing with electronics, especially large batteries that can easily catch fire.
You are also dealing with a motorised vehicle with all the rules. Australia does allow you to maintain your own bike, but please do it carefully.
Legal - is it, am I going to tell you?
Sure, I can advise people. I can come up with ideas. Using this information on a vehicle designed for the road has all sorts of implications. I am not responsible for any of them.
Bikes - this is about the electric one, but I have other bikes, here they are. Also might get more electric ones later.
Comparing - virtually anyway, other electric motorbikes available in Australia.
| Bike | Price | Details | Motor | Battery | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Braaap EV5 | $5000 | 5kW | 6kW | Cheap sports bike | |
| Braaap EV8 | $7000 | 5kW | 6kW | Cheap sports bike | |
| Braaap EV10 | $8500 | 5kW | 6kW | Cheap sports bike | |
| Evoke Urban | $16000 | ||||
| Harley LiveWire | $35000 | ||||
| Savic | $27000 | ||||
| Verge TS | $36000 | ||||
| Zero | $25000 |
Since I have an EV5, I want to compare this to an EV8 and EV10
It was not clear in purchase, but the 5000W version, does not have ABS or adjustable suspension. It appears the EV8 and EV10 do have both of these.
TODO
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCvaxuG1UR8
This is between 2 and 4 times the kW and has a lot larger range (250km), and about 2 to 4 times the price.
Live Wire
Savic, another Melbourne company that builds locally
TODO
https://vmotosoco.com.au/model/super-soco-tc-max-spoke-wheel/
Apparently available in Australia, but I can’t find them
These are amazing beautiful invovative bikes, but super expensive, 25,000 euros
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7oTg6XJsnk
Zero look good in Australia???
They seem to be second hand in Australia, can’t find new ones.
Zero SR
We Need To Talk About ZERO Motorcycles
Everything is an upgrade. You pay to turn on the already installed heated handlebars. You pay to charge faster. You pay for software updates to use more battery. Just NO! This has to stop. We can’t allow this model into our lives.
Braaap Moto EV5, 5kw electric motorbike 2022
Braaap Moto EV5
This is a cheaply made, mostly rebranded, bulk Chinese built motorbike. However, that isn’t a bad thing. Braaap have brought it to Australia for a really cheap price. I’ve seen videos of people importing models (clearly same factory, even though slightly different) into America for far higher price. Initially they look cheaper, but getting approval, import duties, GST, and most importantly, getting the actual thing you wanted - all this work has been done by Braaap!
When it comes to the bike frame, brakes, shocks etc, I am not a great judge, as I just don’t have the experience and I’ve frankly never before ridden a sport bike. From that limitaiton though, I find it appears to be well constructed, functional and easy to ride.
The controller used and hub motor is very common and used for many people who have done home conversions.
Connectors for electronics are pretty standard, and the battery charging and probably added battery, uses anderson plugs.
Updating, upgrading, modifying so far has been a breeze.
I have questions not answers, like how the hell do I remove the back wheel to replace a tyre, does it TRUELY require me to pull apart everything to get the wire out to remove the wheel and tyre. Its like it has been installed the same way people used to be sewn into their clothing.
You get what you pay for. Want something with DC charging etc, buy something more expensive. This is a both a cheap bike (build quality) and a cheap bike ($).
Totally no regrets, I see many years of play and upgrades to this bike.
These are ongoing and included in my ride blog. Here is some basic bullet points.
References to external information
Controller information
Maintenance Stuff
Schedule of service according to the manual.
Services listed for warranty.
Go with every 3,000km and should be fine
They are all the same on this bike:
“Inspection, cleaning, lubrication, replacement and adjust”
Required battery maintenance…
The 500km service talks about connecting to a computer and doing a battery check. I am waiting on further information for this. Seems Braaap have dropped this requirement from the maintenance manual.
Brakes - standard safety checks
TODO: Find some good videos to add
Connectors
The connectors are already well documented on the Braaap support site along with the Far Driveer site.
Following are specifics I have documented on the connectors purpose, colours, connector type etc. See also wires in maintenance about safety etc.
TODO: Find Bluetooth, Serial and CAN bus connectors
What do we do each day / each ride.
Usual safety check:
Rough guide to removing fairings
The 500km service talks about connecting to a computer and doing a battery check. I am waiting on further information for this. Seems Braaap have dropped this requirement from the maintenance manual.
Test the forks? Leaks, Pressure (find tutorial)
TODO: Find videos
The motor, the wheel, the hub motor….
These I think are QS hub motors. There is lots of interesiting stuff on youtube on them. Here is a small collection:
Check steering
Esecpecially any slop in the movement or bearings. Check the steering bolts are all secure.
Tighten everything
What to check and look for
It is important to get torque correct. Too tight, broken bike, too loose, broken head on the highway.
There is no details on this bike at all on what torque should be used for anything. I’m starting a list here.
Tyres are consumable, how to replace them
TODO
TODO
Temporary repair options?
TODO
Wheels… spokes, pressure, wear, etc
Even if we go to the experts, we need to know how to take off the wheels, especially the back wheel which has a hub motor and wire leading to it.
TODO
TODO - Suspect it will require removing the entire wire and routing to the controller.
I found the rear wheel out of alignment with the bike. I can’t seem to see an obvious way to actually measure this. When I look at the swing bar I could see the offset easily.
Turns out the reason is fairly simple, you can’t lock it all the way to the back of the swing bar, or the brake rotation bar won’t fit onto the swing bar. When I first tried to align it, I hadn’t realised that wasn’t sitting correctly. Second time I moved both nuts forward on the axle about 5 to 8mm from the back of the swingbar.
Once in place, and making sure the brake rotation bar was in place correctly, I both checked each side of swing bar and a visual alignment down the tyre. Tightened both internal nuts, then the lock nuts, then finally the smaller 10mm screws designed to stop rotation. Note these last ones are poor mild steel and very easy to over tighten, so be careful.
Have a look from the rear to see if you think the wheel is aligned. You can also look at the gap at the back of the swing bar
Put the bike on a rear stand, e.g. one that holds the wheel flat and off the ground. Swing bar stand.
Loosen the outer nut first. I had to use a metal bar connected to my ratchet driver as I didn't have an impact driver. Then loosen the inner nut, you have to loosen it a few turns. Don't forget to loosen the smaller screw (stops rotation).
Repeat on the right side. When you tighten everything up - make sure you are careful not to overtighten the smaller screw - it is mild steel only. Also make sure the inner nut is screwed tight first. How tight. Very tight. I don't have the specs as they are not released. We need to push Braaap for better maintenance information.
Be very careful to make sure the brake arm (stops rotation of the caliper mechanism) slot is in this holder.
Now tighten everything up and manually check the brakes. Then start the bike on the stand, spin the wheel (not too fast, keep it undr 100kph) and test the brake further. Did I mention you should check it is tight and that the brake is working. Good.
Wires
TODO: Document what wires where, safety, mounting etc
Battery, adding to, replacing, maintaining and charging.
Add additional batteries
I will be looking at the manufacturer add on batteries, and my own soon.
In my 5kw model - Ternary Lithium Battery, 72 volts, 80 Ah, 30kg
Wondering if you can buy the 10kW version battery, which I think is 120 Ah instead of 80, but should fit in the same space? Look into it.
Expensive. I found almost all 50Ah + size batteries were over $2000. I found one 72V, 70Ah with a 10A charger for $1000 via China. This would double my range.
Not looked into prices yet. I’ve built batteries before, but never this large.
I suspect, considering the 8kW and 10kW bikes have larger batteries, there is space here. Look at that in the box.
This is a nice easy location to use, either inside, below, to the sides or on top.
You could have sidecar, and carry camping stuff, etc
Better alternative to sidecar, I think they are easier/safer to use, and certainly cheaper. Should not be that hard to wire in the lights, and an extended battery cord.
Charging
The stock charger is good, it charges at about 80 volts, 15 Amps. So a little over 1000 watts.
Top of charger
Connector
Since we have 240 volt, 10Amps = 2400 watts, available in Australia, we should be able to build a charger that delivers in excess of 25 amps.
There are some 25A and even 50A chargers available with full automation and 4 stage controllers and more feedback. Obviously 50 amp chargers need bigger houe plugs (17 amps). Australia can have installed 10, 15, 20, 25 and 32 amp single phase plugs. For now I will concentrate on 10 amp chargers, which should produce about 25 amps into the battery.
There is a 25 Amp Fast Charge set that is designed to be used at electric car fast charge locations. It looks interesting and has the correct connectors etc. I don’t yet know anything about these ports, do they need some form of communication, like USB-C to set the voltage etc. On the web site there is a picture of the cables but also a box. I’m wondering if that box is going inside the unit
Level 3 chargers run at 480 volts, 100 amps. 48,000 watts, or more than 10 15 amp power plugs. So not in any way practical in home use.
Level 2 chargers,
https://www.lifewire.com/every-ev-charging-standard-and-connector-type-explained-5201160
The volts of the charger will say either 72 or 84. The batteries are 72 volt lithium, but need to be charged to 84 volts. Therefore chargers will sometimes say 72, sometimes say 84.
In the post is a Solar MPPT 72V Lithium charger. It is only a 600W charger, so max about 7Amps - but if I can get it working ok, it will be free charging. About 8+ hours is my estimate.
The stock charger is not water proof and should not be mounted on the bike. I have purchased a seat bag (waiting) to put it in for normal use, and for shopping.
Braaap are going to release a fast charger (25A I think) designed to be mounted and to allow you to use commercial charging stations.
Here is a list of other chargers you could buy online. I have not reviewed or tested any of these. You need at least IP65/IP66 (IP67 is for immersion in water for 30 minutes, and not necessary) for water resistence (generally this means splash proof). Technically 64 should be enough. You need a 72V charger. The battery has the main BMS (battery management system) for balance charging, but you still need to make sure your external charger has the right cut off.
Also the stock wiring in the bike is a little thing for 25A or 30A charger, even though the Anderson plug used can do up to 50A.
For reference, here are a few searches:
An example charger, with cables, indicator and rated IP66
Mounting the charger onto the bike.
Charging Plug
Uses a Anderson Plug (TODO Model, rating etc). It has a large connection inside the motorbike, assuming down to the battery. It is always live.
I’m assuming that this is rated to at least 25 Amps for the fast charger.
This is a very high quality plug with plenty of amps. The stock charger, has a much smaller lead (due to it only being 15 amps).
The manufacturer has removed the plug from the charger, but it is still on the bike.
It is actually a IEC C13, also known as a kettle cord. It is common in Australian kettles and most computer equipment.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60320#/media/File:IEC_60320_C13.svg
I can’t find out information on if it is legal to use. I’m guessing yes, since we control what does plug into 240 volts, not the other way around.
These plugs are rated to 15 amps though.
Use an EC13 and connect it in parallel on the charger, to allow an alternative plug. I will need to monitor current and temperature to make sure this is safe. Pretty confident it will be.
My plan would then be cover it in red heat shrink, and a plastic large label to identify that it is 72 (or technically 84) volts.
Manufacturer has provided a spot to mount the charger. In reality there is some holes, but I can’t see any way to put screws in, until I pull the bike apart.
Howevev, if I do connect that onto the side, route the DC cable back up to the existing Anderson connector, then I could replace that EC13 socket with a 3 pin (ie, including earth) to the charger. Then I only need to plug in a standard 240 volt kettle cord, which is easy to carry.
Apparently the fast charger will fit into the fuel tank slot to allow simple plug into to Level 2 chargers out in the real world. I have looked at the tank, and it seems quite constricted. Maybe it is possible, or maybe they plan on replacing the tank.
Maybe there is other things I can use in that spot, as it is nicer than removing the rear seat.
I’m considering a new Anderson Plug to replace the EC13.
The one I found looks like it will be easy to install and replace the existing one. Internally I can use some good quality UV/Water proof heat shrink on the wires, which will vastly improve what is there.
Externally though, I could not find a panel mount anderson plug that has a cover. I’m going to hack away at that today to see if I can make a rubber cover that pulls into place.
Replace main battery
Hacking the bike
This won’t necessarily be actually hacking the bike, but rather more advanced upgrades.
The current battery monitor 5 bars is reasonably basic
I have built battery monitors in the past that have a better idea of battery.
I have started this, see Projects Battery Monitor
A basic version that just monitors voltage will already be useful. Capturing all data should be good to experiment with.
An interesting idea is to keep track of voltage over time.
This is a good start. Nice thing about a bettery monitor is we can watch this over time rather than the instantanious reading. This means we can give you more real world approximation of remaining power
Using a shunt, looses a tiny bit of voltage (usually about 0.1V) and allows you to measure very high currents. This kind of setup of setup is a little more complicated. If I can do it that allows me to not only view the current used but also put into the battery, should allow me to very accurately measure state of charge.
A display can easily be used to show the current information we know about.
Radio to connect to WiFi, uploading data. Bluetooth to see on your phone instead of display above. Or LoRa for access to data anywhere LoRa is. Could also use cellular for another cost.
Far Drive have an Android/iPhone app and Bluetooth dongle
Now technically, this is just a serial to bluetooth dongle - probably taking TTL serial data, some power and creating a bluetooth dongle. It was cheap enough that I just purchased it from China and will play with other connections later.
Plug to find
Note: The plug is actually connected to a lead that goes into the rear seat, but with only the transmit wire from the controller. I’m assuming this is to allow people to connect bluetooth dongles or similar and read values but not make any changes.
Bluetooth dongle installed
I connected it into the originanl plug, removing the wire to the rear seat, allowing full control.
This connector is serial and power - and is used for this dongle and for direct connection to a windows laptop (although I still can’t source the software).
This bluetooth dongle, is just a regular bluetooth to serial dongle, and you could use others. Even the software on my android phone, picks up other bluetooth serial devices in the area.
Which serial, RS485, RS232, TTL is yet to be checked. I think it is RS485.
Next step will be to find the CAN bus addresses and messages. Some of them are pretty standard I think, such as speed - but not yet sure about voltage, and current.
It is easy to install and easy to use.
Be aware there is ZERO security. If you leave this attached, then anyone with a laptop can change your settings. Use at your own risk.
TODO - I will be getting a dump of the data soon to analyse the information. I should then be able to extract the necessary data.
I didn’t get any further into looking at what they call curves (I would have called graphs, dials, and curves graphs/charts).
Found a link to the code, yet to be tested
CAN bus - the standard vehicle bus
CAN bus, very nice. Need to see what it does and what it provides. Could be ideal for adding devices / hacking.
Heads up display
I was thinking of something REALLY simple.
Simple LED indicators in the helmet. I think this would be better than an auto canceller with all the complexities.
Don’t want it always up, reduce glare etc. Possibly a button to show, or a led that flashes briefly as down to last 25%
Log everything
To start with logging that includes:
A simple ESP32, that only comes on when the bike is on, would allow for logging of all trip information.
Then when it returns home, leaving it on long enough to reconnect to WiFi and send data. It could also do bluetooth real time.
This could be also a good way of connecting to the HUD
Documentation shows Serial Port
The documentation talk about a serial port. Look at connection, and check what settings (baud et al) it uses, wheter it is 3.3/5 volt TTL, RS 232, RS 485.
And most importantly, see what it is telling us.
If I can get the software (looks like some Windows software) then I can read all the serial in and out and see what the protocol is.
The bluetooth dongle, seems to connect to not just my android phone, but my laptop and desktop too. However I can’t seem to connect to it. ie, its probably not a standard Bluetooth profile. I should still be able to connect direct and see.
I don’t currently have a USB/RS485, ordered
The ESP32 I have has a RS485 connection, going to do a capture of all serial data from that. No idea the board rate, but most RS485 uses 115200 unless long distance.
Issues TODO
TODO: What I would like to check
A curated list of things I need to check if are an issue or not.
There is an external charge port, and an Anderson plug under the rear seat. Are these protected? Are these fused?
I’ve noticed some of the cables come close to moving parts. I am going to review all of these during the service and see if any further cable ties need adding. Also some of the cavities allow mud/water in, I’ll check all the connectors are safe.
Where is it? What does it control? Does it have spares?
All training online for maintenance, removing the wheel, checking ABS, etc is all talking about general information and pointing you to the specific shop manual for your bike. Where is the manual for this bike?
Update: A manual has been released, but does not yet have information needed such as removing rear wheel.
Two on the dash, 4 on the left side. None seem to do anything except one makes a noise. Also a “maintenance” button on the right handlebar that doesn’t seem to do anything.
Update: The 4 buttons left side is bluetooth speaker system
Check the quiescent current of the stock charger to see if it can be left on long term, or needs a timer. ie. It should draw almost nothing when the bike is charged.
TODO
During a crash, the throttle may stay hard open with the bike on its side. I think a kill switch would still be useful safety. The controller already had support for it.
Update: The kick stand is the kill switch, but will outside people know? Might be not an issue.
Is switch back to middle common? Other motorbikes I have ridden press in to cancel - which is very easy to do. The slide back to the middle requires me to look down and check - as instead of switching left off to centre, I may have turned on right from centre - impossible to tell.
Seems pretty quiet, consider upgrading.
Review brightness and width etc
Alarm and Remote control
The volume of the alarm is a lot. However, I have no issue when the alarm goes off, my issue comes from pressing the button on the key - lock/unlock. Scares the hell out of people around me.
The alarm should be loud, the lock/unlock sound should not be !
Back Brake is normally on the right foot of a motorbike, but left hand for bikes and scooters. Which is better?
Almost all motorbikes have a clutch, therefore the back brake is down at the right foot.
Bikes and scooters do not have a clutch and therefore have the back brake left hand
Is right hand, and should be on everything. But be aware, some countries use the left side for front brake on bicycles.
If you are used to clutched bikes, you don’t want to accidentally grab the rear brake thinking it is the clutch. This hasn’t been a problem for me, but I don’t have the years on motorbikes others do.
Consistent with motorbikes. This one is tricky, since it isn’t consistent with bicycles or scooters. We switch between cars and bikes and motorbikes.
The rolling on a hill argument is interesting. The idea there is that you keep right foot on the brake, and won’t roll, thus releasing your hands. Where as with hand brakes, you can’t use both hands. However, the opposite is true, you can use both feet. This doesn’t stop the roll, but can present you with a more stable ground, especially as a beginner.
Finesse. I find the gentle tacktle response far better control that using my foot. And it means I can wear chunkier boots when riding as I don’t need feet finesse to control gears and brake.
For me, no question, hand back brake on the left handlebars is FAR superior to a foot brake. I also totally understand people who have ridden for years tripping up on this.
Balancing tyres is important
Put bike on rear stand, and spin up wheel. Do not over spin, check speedo, keep it around max of 100km.
Watch the vibration over the bike.
No ABS, but does have CBS, so what is CBS
TODO. I have not reviewed this yet. I can say for certain that the front brake has no effect on the back wheel. Not played enough on the stands, using the rear brake.
Mainly my issue with CBS on this motorbike is that most of the new training etc talks about putting more emphasis on the front brake, which has no ABS, therefore no protection.
The front brake is not effected - this is where we really want ABS since 80% of braking is done on this wheel.
The CBS is basically a rear wheel brake which then adds in about 20% on the front wheel.
The concept of this is that people tend to be taught not to slam on the front brake, and fear of going over the handles, so that emergency braking has a large rear wheel input.
The problem is, this is VERY old advice. Using the front brake, well, is far more effective at braking.
Location and Type
See Battery Plug for more detailed information.
The external plug on the bike is an EC13, which is clearly problematic, as in Australia someone may plugin a 240 volt cord from a computer or kettle. I remember a CB radio I had with USB charge cable, only it was 12 volts. Plugged that into my phone - but USB is supposed to be 5 volts !!!
The external location one is great but wrong plug. The other cable (desired probably for extended battery) is under the rear seat.
Hill starts - when your brake stops the accelerator?
I’m finding hill starts very difficult. Initially I thought dragging my back brake during slow turns would not work, but once I am moving, I can add back brake without much concern, and move fairly slowly. Being a sport bike (I think) I am fidning it harder to move slow.
However, taking off up a hill (even a small one) is VERY difficult. The soft start on the accelerator means that I can not help but roll backwards before going fowards - as the accelerator does nothing until the brakes are both released.
Trail braking and similar suggesting putting 1-5% load on the front forks. I have found that heading uphill even a bit, I can’t touch either brake without completely disengaging the motor. This means that I get a very odd behaviour.
Key sometimes turns off bike
Yes, I couldn’t resist. Yes it is supposed to. But when using the key, sometimes moving the handle bars turns off the bike. This is caused by a loose connection.
TODO - not yet done, will be first service.
Reviewing the manual
https://support.braaapmotorcycles.com/hc/en-au/articles/10682311179289-MotoE-User-Manuals
The main one here is removing the rear wheel. Obviously if there is a tyre needing to be replaced, it needs to be removed, either by owner or tyre repair. However, due to the hub motor having wire in place, what is the process of removing that wheel? Also as it is a hub motor, it doesn’t use more common axle. And of course it is important to include which bolts must be in place and tension.
Mirrors, how are they, upgrades etc.
On the CB125 I have mirrors attached to the handlebar, and I can easily see behind me. On the EV5 I can not see directly behind me, no matter where I put the mirrors, I’m just always in the way - I’m just too wide.
On facebook the discussion recommended either to try and adjust the arm (no luck for me, but might help others), add curved mirrors, add bar end mirrors, replace with mirrors similar to moto3
I have ordered some bar end mirrors to try.
Parking, when you can’t leave it in gear?
Parking on a bit of a hill? In my geared bike I can leave it in first, and it wont roll.
But is it? As far as I can tell, P for park stops the bike from accidentally going, same as the kick stand down.
I am surprised there is no way to park, effectively short out the motor, so it won’t turn. Be worth looking at the controller to see if this feature is programmable.
The manual says P will stop the bike rolling back and forwards, but it does not work!
It’s quiet out there…. too quiet
There is a long standing myth in motorbikes that loud pipes save lives. This has now been studied so many times and every one of those studies has concluded that it is not true.
Now if you want to justify your loud pipes - go for it.
Think about a vehicle comming towards you, vs going past you. They are SOOO much quieter until they pass you. When we talk about loud pipes, we are wanting vehicles in front of us to see us.
Range
This document is more about logging information about the range, rather than actually an issue.
Apparently about 80 to 120km
I’m not really in a posiotion to ride without concern. I don’t have a trailer, and I don’t always have someone to come and get me.
Kinglake trip was 66 to 70km and the battery went completely flat. Planning on now doing this 3 times.
Since we only have voltage, here is a rough guide.
Stand
For now I have purchased some eBay stands. Cheap but limited.
Sudden stop on flat battery
Almost every review I’ve seen of electric motorbikes, even cheap ones, has shown how when people do range testing on the battery, they all end up in a limp mode to allow you to get home or somewhere safe a little slower.
The lack of limp mode is painful! And also a little dangerous. I got stuck, with my first flat battery, on a very twisty bituman side road with nowhere to pull over and impossibly difficult to push up the hill
After restart I got another 500m, but was not able to move much in mode 1, had to use mode 3.
It showed 2 bars and suddenly stopped
My battery power failure was almost instant. One beep and it switched off.
This feels insanely dangerous to me. Imagine riding at 100km on twisty roads in the pitch dark and loosing all power suddenly, including lights.
I am actually quite dissapointed that this isn’t a requirement of safety in Australia.
Cutting the power to the wheel is acceptable. Not fantastic, I really want limp mode, also for safetly. But FFS do NOT turn off the whole bike.
Not only is this clearly dangerous without lights but then you have no way of using your emergecy blinkers and no way to check the voltage of the battery.
Bike Weight
Technically the manual says 190kg. Since the battery is only 30kg (Again, acooding to the manual) I am surprised.
However, there is a lot of information missing on this bike, so I am planning on doing some weighing and seeing what it actually is and where it is.
Since I have no clue, and therefore others won’t either, here is a rough idea of bike weights according to the internet.
Large scale projects I’m thinking about
A basic battery monitor based on embedded board and analog reads
This is a very basic battery monitor using only the voltage to estimate SOC etc
Temporary location, water resistant, mounted using 2 screws from tank lid
Basic embedded board with an OLED display - probably not readable in daylight, but a good start. Board I have in mind has USB-C input so we can run it directly off the 5V USB port on the bike.
The Voltage measurement is a basic resistor divider with protection for spikes. These are not great accuracy over temperature range etc. However since we are only measuring 60 to 84 volts - I strongly suspect I’ll be able to calibrate it to the nearest decivolt (10th of a volt, e.g. 72.7 volts)
Fully automatic when you turn on the bike. Also allow a single button to reset too.
Second button to do with uplaods and WiFi connect.
Start simple. Mount directly on a USB cable plugin (boards are very light and easy to connect). Using the unused charge port on the bike, to easily access the battery voltage. Add a plug there that routes the wires up to the front.
It calculates the voltage, 30 second average, but no SOC etc. Adding some SOC and logging soon.
See Range Monitor project for next version. Basically it adds a GPS and will capture the accelerometer data too and possibly some temperature sensors.
Build my Island bike
The Braaap EV5 is a pretty cheap bike, less than $5k.
I would love to:
Get some money so I can do this
This has a 120Ah battery.
Steep the 80Ah battery from the EV5 (an 80Ah battery would cost me about $2500) and use it to extend the range of the EV10.
Put a 20Ah battery (about $500) into the old EV5 - which is plenty of range for my island bike.
What is my ideal controller
This project is purely virtual. What would I do if I built a controller.
Obviously should support 72+, possibly even 200+ volts
Starting 5kW and up to 40kW
These could be outside of scope of controller but ABS
It is useful and relatively simple.
Ideally split components into sections that are reusable.
Main parts:
Constantly log rides
Based on the battery monitor basic, but also adds in GPS or other ways of measuring distance
The idea is to present this data on a web site. Thus I can continually keep information up online of the rides, distances and most importantly the battery voltage over the trip.
This can then allow us to show chart of battery over the trip, so we can see if it is a constant lowering average, or if it has dips (e.g. up hills or on the freeway).
Can analyse the route and work out type of road - standard, freeway, hilly, …
Data can be made public with just the data, total km and volts, or track volts over time or even allow full access to track too.
Upgrades
Nick Busse from the Braaap FB Group made this key fob
“Created a small quality of life improvement for myself today. I almost exclusively start my MotoE using the remote, but still need the key for the steering lock. So this is my attempt to save some pocket space and combine the two. It’s a little rough around the edges but I consider this a successful first draft.” Nick.
Nick has provided the STL files you can use to print. They are provided as is.
Start simple, and expand
Rear set luggage. I’m going all out. $29 for a bag.
Extend length of mirrors
Yes yes, you can buy mirror extensions cheap online. But I just love making things.
A stable phone mount
TODO
Quad lock
TODO
Space inside the bike could be used
There is quite a lot of space inside the bike. Could be usd for things.
This has a lot of space, but is mostly taken up with plastic around the back. Inside that space would be perfect for a small toolkit and emergency kit (bandages etc) - however it would fall through and be unsafe. I need to look at creating a closed space, probably using canvas, to store those things.
TODO
Hard to see the dash
It is really hard to see the dash in the daytime. You can purchase a black windscreen.
A facebook post suggests removing the screen and painting it black on the inside. Definitely doing that.
Remove mirrors. Lift from the back, unclips at the front.
I taped up the rough part, to only pain the smooth. But I think it be better to do the lot.
Inside
Outside
Installed and looking lovely.
In hindsight I probably would have not bothered taping, and sprayed it all. Good news is, I still can. It looks fantastic.
